Along with their two children, Hannah Millbank and her husband celebrated their tenth wedding anniversary glamping in south Wales
I’m not sure who suggested it first. Either way, we both agreed that we couldn’t leave our boys at home while we enjoyed a weekend of fresh air and campfires at Penhein glamp-site.
And so, it was decided: our tenth wedding anniversary would be spent snuggling up with not just each other, but our two boys aged 6 and 8. After all, what child doesn’t love counting the stars and melting marshmallows on the fire, before disappearing into a cosy yurt to sleep?
Despite the short journey, 35 minutes from Bristol, Penhein’s rural south Wales location feels a million miles away from the city. Ignoring our pleas to change out of their school uniform on arrival late Friday afternoon, the boys quickly scarpered to explore the site. While we grabbed a pair of wheelbarrows to transport our belongings from the car to our traditional Persian alachigh (yurt), we spotted the odd glimpse of them dashing across the wooden playground, bouncing through long grass towards a set of goalposts and climbing (heart-stoppingly) high on a rope-swing.
Owner and farmer Helen Hearn has created a beautiful glamp-site, sensitively concealed among woodland and wild-flowers on the edge of the farm that has been in her family for 150 years. Meandering paths take guests to their own private ‘pitch’, complete with firepit and under-canvas en-suite (with a proper flushing loo!). While the site offers a luxurious shower-block (there’s even a roll-top bath) and a ‘cheat’s kitchen’ with induction hobs and microwave if your Bear Grylls survival skills aren’t up to cooking on the open fire or log-burner during your stay.
A well-stocked, honesty box freezer and pantry includes Penhein jams, chutneys, damson vodka and locally sourced meat for the barbecue.
There was something very Alice-in-Wonderland about entering Castroggi, our tent. From the outside, the beige dome looked nothing special, but push open the door and inside is quite magical. Beautifully furnished with a (proper!) double bed, trundle beds made up for the boys and a kitchen complete with dining table and chairs, sink and cupboards to keep things tidy. A log-burner warms the tent quickly, much-needed for Spring’s chillier temperatures, especially first thing in the morning. Tealights hang from the ceiling, beneath a skylight perfectly positioned for late night star gazing.
It’s these well-considered touches that makes Penhein such a special place. Helen has thought of everything you might need to enjoy your stay, while taking nothing away from the simplicity and ease that so many of us enjoy about camping with kids.
Outdoor adventure
Guests reach their accommodation via a mile-long drive that takes you past the farm, through Penhein’s 450-acre estate. The glamp-site is close enough to hear the animals, but far enough away not to be disturbed by the comings and goings of a busy working farm.
And while it’s easy to amuse yourselves exploring the farm’s various nature trails, paddling in the Castroggi stream or climbing nearby Gray Hill, there are a range of activities that you can book and enjoy during your stay. From gin foraging and bushcraft, to archery and relaxation treatments, there is something to cater for every adult and every child’s tastes.
On the first morning of our stay, we wandered up to the main farm to join Helen for Penhein’s Lambing Experience, a springtime offering for glamping guests. Our timing didn’t align for us to witness an actual lambing, but two new arrivals had made an appearance the night before meaning we were able to meet 24-hour-old babies who nuzzled eagerly into their mums as they hungrily searched for milk.
They may be city kids, but the boys quickly got stuck in to helping Helen, feeding hay to a pair of slightly older lambs, and spraying bright red numbers on their wool before turning them out to enjoy the freedom of fields for the first time. A fierce nature lover, our eldest swiftly declared that he wanted to become a farmer (after his professional footballer career ended, of course) and proceeded to quiz Helen on various aspects of farm-life.
Given the time of year, when rain-showers are a given, we were very fortunate with the weather. The only downpour took place late Saturday evening after burgers and sausages had been fired and marshmallows toasted, with the first drop falling just as we were letting the campfire dwindle. And so, we enjoyed the un-beatable cosy combination of rain patter on canvas and crackling logs in the burner, from the warmth of a bed large enough for all four us to read bedtime stories together.
On Sunday afternoon, we drove the short distance to Tintern, taking in the slightly eery ruins of the abbey, famed for its state of disrepair. Our planned leisurely walk along the River Wye was thwarted by a bridge closure, so instead we let the boys decide our route.
Choosing the steepest path they could find, they led us to the very top of the valley. Slightly breathless by the time we reached the top (us, not them), we found ourselves all alone on a bluebell-lined path through the beautiful Barbadoes Wood. The boys ran ahead along the winding trail, taking us on an adventure that we wouldn’t have found without them.
And thereby summed up the tone for the weekend. The boys taking the lead to explore and adventure, re-appearing regularly with the obligatory call of, “I’m hungry”. As we trailed behind them, reminiscing about our nuptials, we wondered aloud what our weekend would have been if we had left our two miniature hanger-oners at home. Of course, we wouldn’t have had it any other way.
Penhein is just 35 minutes from Bristol and two-night, mid-week stays start at £295 for a tent. There are plenty of activities that can be arranged during your stay from Family Bushcraft to dawn walking safaris, meadow yoga and relaxation treatments. We took part in the Lambing Experience for £25 per tent. www.penhein.co.uk